If you know me, you know that I am absolutely in love with Scotland and make it a point to visit at least once a year. My trips almost always begin with a full day in Edinburgh, where I indulge in book shopping, relax in my favourite cafés, and explore the city’s amazing witchy stores.
Edinburgh is also my favourite place to discover and collect new books as I rarely leave without at least 10 new books in my suitcase. The city holds the title of UNESCO city of literature for a reason!
While there are now 53 cities of literature worldwide, Edinburgh was the first, earning the title in 2004. The city is home to over 50 bookshops and hosts the world’s largest book festival of its kind, every August, featuring over 800 writers from around the world. It is also the only city in the world to have a monument in honour of a writer, in this instance one of Scotland’s greatest writers, Sir Walter Scott.
Over the years, I have developed my own routine, always visiting the same bookstores and I thought I’d share them with you. With local bookstores needing our support now more than ever, this felt like the perfect time to write about them.
So here are my 6 favourite bookstores in Edinburgh:
Starting with my absolute favourite one - Rare Birds - located in the heart of Stockbridge. It is the only bookshop in Scotland entirely dedicated entirely to women’s writings and has been successfully growing since it first opened in 2021. The selection is always incredible and I always have to restrain myself from buying the entire store. They also have an amazing book club, where subscribers receive a new book every month. Some of these books even come with exclusive cover designs created just for the book club —I have a few of these special editions, and I truly cherish them.
Also in Stockbridge is Golden Hare Books, a gem of an independent bookstore with a thoughtfully curated selection. They also publish their own books and offer a monthly book subscription for those in the UK. If you're on the hunt for children's books, this would be my top recommendation—their collection is both extensive and beautifully chosen.
Next up is Typewronger Books, a charming shop which sells new books, indie publications, zines and prints. I love going to this bookstore because the owner is really lovely and always gives great book recommendations. The last time I was there, he even offered us some delicious homemade iced tea. My favourite thing about this shop is that you can get the bookstore stamp in every book that you buy. Before you leave, you will get to pick an origami animal to take home. I now have a little dragon and a shark that live permanently on my desk. I also had an elephant once, but sadly, it got lost on its way back to Geneva with me.
Right across the street from Typewronger, you will find Toppings & Company, a small but wonderful bookstore chain with four locations across the UK. Out of all the shops on this list, this one has the most extensive selection, with everything beautifully organised by genre.If you're in the UK, you can also subscribe to their signed book subscription, which is such a great way to collect unique editions (I am honestly a tiny bit jealous).
For second-hand book lovers, Tills Bookshop is a must-visit. As one of Edinburgh’s oldest surviving second-hand bookshops—established in 1985—it has a rich history and an excellent selection. They also carry a beautiful range of postcards, perfect for sending something special to loved ones back home.
Last but not least, Lighthouse Bookshop is a queer-owned and woman-led independent community bookshop. They are passionate about intersectional feminism, revolutionary history, environmentalism, LGBT+ writing, poetry and translated fiction. I always discover incredible books here and can spend hours browsing. This place also holds a little magic for me—on my last visit, I randomly ran into two university friends I hadn’t seen in over six years. Our excited screams may or may not have startled some of the peaceful browsers that day.
There are so many more bookstores that could have made this list, but I decided to stick to the ones I return to every time I’m in town. I hope you love them as much as I do.
Love,